On a geographic map, Rwanda, the small country in central and eastern Africa, appears to be almost drowned out by the collective control of the neighboring giants that surround it. Uganda is pushing from the north, the Democratic Republic of the Congo pushing from the west and Tanzania pulling from the east. On the southern side of the country is Burundi, a neighbor more or less like a twin sister, considering its physical size and shared history.

Rwanda is a perfectly beautiful country. It is characterized by steep, rolling hills, deep valleys, and a fascinating savanna. The scenery is simply breathtaking!

It is said that a pygmy people of hunter-gatherers were the first settlers of this region. These are the ancestors of the Twa people. The descendants of this Aboriginal group currently represent only 0.25% of Rwanda’s total population, estimated at around 9 million people.

Later, different Bantu-speaking groups joined the Twa, arriving at different times. These latter groups are the descendants of the better known Hutu and Tutsi. Due to the terrible conflicts and the apparent rift between Hutu and Tutsi, many have come to take for granted that they are different ethnic groups. However, the Hutu and Tutsi speak the same language; This is in addition to the fact that they share many social and cultural practices. In fact, social scientists differ in opinion on the question as to whether they are actually different ethnic groups. The most significant distinction seems to have been based on a person’s occupation and social class rather than ethnicity. In its early days, those who worked the land practiced agriculture were the masses and were considered Hutu, while the herders who raised livestock were the elite and were identified as Tutsi.

In the early days, everyone paid promised allegiance to the same king and identity as a Hutu or Tutsi was not fixed. For example, a person considered Tutsi would lose his livestock (wealth) to some disease. This loss of wealth would revert their status to Hutu. And likewise, a Hutu who worked harder and acquired livestock would gain status and move up the social ladder to become a Tutsi. That was then. This harmless social distinction ended with the onset of colonization. It began to morph into a fixed ethnic label as the physical characteristics that separated the 2 groups were sought.

After the Berlin Conference of 1885, Germany colonized Rwanda. A little later, in 1918, Belgium took over after winning a mandate from the League of Nations. Unfortunately, and as with many colonial powers of that time, the divide and rule philosophy was an attractive tool. The Belgian style of indirect rule meant that they had to divide the general population in order to rule easily. Therefore, they sought to magnify the differences between the groups. The ethnicity label provided a perfect opportunity. For example, in 1933 identity cards were introduced. These cards classified one according to ethnic group. In addition to being an identity tool, it only served to widen the existing gap between the groups.

Rwanda achieved political independence in 1962, with Gregoire Kayibanda as Prime Minister. But the ethnic tensions did not end. Just one year after independence, in 1963, clashes broke out resulting in thousands of deaths, mostly Tutsi civilians. Many others fled as refugees to neighboring countries.

Despite social and political instability, Rwanda was able to overcome the challenges of being a modern state and progress. As a tourist destination, Rwanda was able to claim its rightful place on the tourist map. Gorilla tracking in the Virunga Mountains was Rwanda’s main tourist attraction. And until the early 1990s, Rwanda remained firmly in the travel supplement of major travel magazines and travel agency brochures.

The year 1994

Rwanda made world headlines in a nasty way in the first months of 1994. The plane carrying the presidents of Rwanda and Burundi mysteriously crashed, killing them both. This triggered what is known as the 1994 Rwandan genocide. Between April and July 1994, nearly 800,000 people, mostly Tutsis, were killed. Eventually a Tutsi-dominated rebel group captured the capital and installed a new government.

The past is behind, the future is ahead

Since 1995, Rwanda has taken tremendous steps toward recovery, slowly, steadily, and astonishingly. And in terms of travel, tourists come back to see the mountain gorillas of the Virunga Mountains and the elephants of Akagera National Park. Currently, some 40,000 tourists visit Rwanda annually.

At the top of Rwanda’s list of tourist attractions are mountain gorillas. Gorillas share 97% of their genes with humans. Those who have had the opportunity to see gorillas cannot find words to describe the feeling. No wildlife guide or study can prepare one for this moving experience. Gorillas are huge. The male can be three times the size of the average man. Yet in comparison, they are so remarkably peace-loving!

‘In the heart of Central Africa, so high that you tremble more than you sweat, there are great old volcanoes that rise to almost 15,000 feet and almost covered by a rich green rainforest: the Virungas.’ These words were written by Dian Fossey. The story of the gorillas of the Virunga Mountains is not complete without that of Dian Fossey. He lived among gorillas and died trying to protect them. In fact, the few mountain gorillas that we have today survived thanks to the efforts of Dian Fossey.

Dian Fossey left her home in Kentucky to go live among the gorillas in Rwanda. I wanted to understand and preserve them. He advocated for the protection of mountain gorillas from hunters who killed them for their skin, hands, and head. By doing this, she became the enemy of the hunters. In 1985, she was murdered in the park. She is buried in Karisoke, the primate research center she had established in Virungas.

Fossey’s effort and subsequent death were not in vain. The Virungas remain the last outpost of the mountain gorillas. It is estimated that half of the world’s mountain gorilla population, currently 740, resides in Virungas. Before his death, he wrote a book: Gorillas In The Mist. It was published in 1983. A biographical film based on his story and this book was published in 1988. The film generated positive publicity that helped advocate for the conservation of mountain gorillas. International awareness of the plight of rare mountain gorillas was raised.

There are 5 groups of inhabited gorillas that can be seen by tourists. Each group can be visited by a maximum of 8 people per day and the visit lasts only 1 hour.

The trek can last from 1 to 6 hours and ascend to altitudes above 7,500 feet. The terrain is rugged and muddy at times. Although the hike is physically demanding, the beauty of the forest and the surrounding landscape make the hike worthwhile and fun. Once the gorillas are located, all the fatigue is forgotten, as the experience is often described as the most profound natural history experience in the world. Cameras and lots of high speed film are recommended. It can rain a few minutes in advance; therefore, rainwear is a good essential, including zip-lock bags for cameras and films. It is important to drink a lot of water.

Permits are issued by Office Rwandaise du Tourisme et des Parcs Nationaux (ORTPN) / The Rwanda Tourism Office, in Kigali or Ruhengeri.

In addition to being home to mountain gorillas, the Virungas themselves are a sight to behold. As you walk through the foothills of the mountains, you will have a panoramic view that is simply breathtaking.

Akagera National Park

Akagera National Park is located on the eastern side of Rwanda, on the border with Tanzania. The park is home to swamps and lakes that follow the course of the Akagera River, which is part of the source of the Nile.

The park has big game. Elephants and buffalo can easily be seen roaming the lakes for a drink. You will also see giraffes and zebras in the savannah and a variety of antelopes. Among the antelopes, the largest antelope in the world, Cape Eland, stands out. If the lucky lady smiles at you, it won’t be difficult to see the leopard, lion, and spotted hyena. And with lakes and swamps, hippos and crocodiles round out the resident list.

Nyungwe National Park

Nyungwe National Park is the largest mountain forest in all of East and Central Africa. The park stretches for more than 1000 square kilometers through the hills of Rwanda on the southeastern side. This park has a very rich and unique diversity in terms of flora and fauna. The forest has more than 200 different types of trees.

Nature lovers are drawn to Nyungwe by primates and birds. The forest is home to 13 species of primates, including the chimpanzee, our closest living relative. It is also here in Nyungwe that you will find more than 300 species of birds. The pleasure of visiting Nyungwe is enhanced by a network of well-maintained trails that allow the visitor to enjoy the beauty of the forest. The trails lead to the waterfalls and lookouts. There is also a rest home and a campsite along the road. Although Nyungwe can be visited as a day trip, it is recommended that you allocate at least 2 days from your itinerary to get a real idea.

Kivu lake

Lake Kivu is an inland sea that is surrounded by steep terraced hills along the border with the Democratic Republic of the Congo. It is the largest of the many freshwater bodies that abound in the valleys of Rwanda. Three cities, Gisenyi, Kibuye, and Cyangugu, are lined up along the lake. Gisenyi is the most developed for travelers, it is less than 1 hour from Parc des Volcans. Kibuye is located south of Gisenyi and Cyangugu, at the southern end of the lake, is very close to the Nyungwe Forest. The 3 cities are connected by a highway. There is also a boat rental service on the lake that connects the 3 cities.

Major cities in Rwanda

Kigali

Kigali is the capital of Rwanda. The city is located in the center of the country. It is also the most important business center and port of entry. There is an efficient international airport and the road transport connecting it to neighboring countries is reliable.

Kigali has a variety of hotels to suit all tastes. It is one of the safest African capitals and is blessed with a moderate high-altitude climate. It is centrally located, so most of the tourist sites are within a 3-hour drive from Kigali.

The main form of public transportation in Kigali and Rwanda in general are shared taxis that link the different cities and towns of the country. For long-distance road trips to neighboring countries, coach services are available.

But they are

Butare was the largest and most important city in Rwanda before 1965, when it lost to the more central Kigali, 135 km to the north, as the capital of independent Rwanda. Today it is the site of several academic institutions, including the largest university in the country. It is still considered the intellectual and cultural pulse of Rwanda.

However, the most prominent tourist attraction in Butare is the magnificent National Museum, which houses perhaps the best ethnographic collection in East Africa.

When is the best time to visit Rwanda and track the gorillas?

Rwanda is a year-round destination. However, gorilla tracking and other forest walks are less demanding when done during the drier months of the European winter, which is the best time for bird watchers as Palearctic migratory birds complement resident species. to create a paradise.