How to Replace a Transfer Case on a Jeep Cherokee

The Jeep Cherokee’s transfer case is an essential part of the wheel drive system. The transfer case is separate from the transmission and can be easily removed for service or replacement. This is how I did it the last time I replaced one.

I started by draining the fluid by removing the bottom drain plug. So I supported the broadcast. Next I removed the front and rear driveshafts. All that was needed was an 8mm hex key and a pry bar.

I then unbolted the transmission mount using a 13mm socket. These nuts are inside the crossmember and are accessed through the holes. I then dropped the crossmember by removing the 15mm bolts and nuts that hold it. That gave me access to the transmission mount which is attached to the transmission by two 18mm bolts. These bolts have a thread-locking compound and are difficult to turn all the way. I inspected the mount which often breaks on high mileage vehicles like this but it was fine. Next I slid the exhaust assembly off the tab.

Rather than fiddle with the shift linkage bushing in the cold, I unbolted the transfer case shifter. I selected 2wd and used a 9/16 wrench to remove the nut and washer. I carefully lowered the link out of the way. I usually press the hub link. Unbolting the lever was easy, so I can start using that method as standard practice.

Next I removed the speedometer drive by unscrewing the 13mm retaining bolt and removing the clip. I left the emitter connected to the wire harness. I removed the harness from the mounting tab at the top of the box. I unplugged the mode light switch and got the wiring out of the way.

Next I unscrewed the six 9/16 nuts that hold the case to the transmission. Five are accessed using a box key. The last one is behind the transfer case shift linkage bracket and must be accessed using a 9/16 socket and a long extension. The two near the tailpipe require a bit of patience to get out unless you remove the tailpipe. Since this one was in good shape and welded in place, I left it alone. Lowering the box helps to access these two nuts.

With all six nuts removed, the transfer case easily slides off the transmission. I then prepared the replacement box to put it back on the 4×4. This allowed me to rotate the front yoke and get the input splines to rotate to line them up. With the replacement case in place I started a nut to hold it in there.

Next, I tightened all six nuts. I then reinstalled the shift linkage, wiring harness, and speedometer. I put the case in 2wd to make the link line up with the stick. I then reinstalled the front driveshaft as it is easier to access with the crossmember out of the way. I filled the transfer case with fluid before putting the rear driveshaft in, as it’s easier to get the bottle in place without the driveshaft in the way. The 231 has a little over a quarter of ATF.

I then put on the exhaust bracket and transmission mount. Again, these bolts are difficult to turn due to the thread-locking compound on them. I then lifted the cross member up and bolted it to the body before lowering the weight of the transmission onto the cross member. I then reinstalled the four nuts that hold the transmission mount to the crossmember.

Next, I reinstalled the rear driveshaft. I checked for leaks and loose bolts then took the Jeep down for a test drive. The replacement transfer case worked fine and shifted into all gears without adjusting the linkage. If the linkage needs to be adjusted, loosen the 13MM bolt on the linkage and slide it to the correct position.

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