You had just arrived at the airport in Tuxla Gutierrez, Chiapas, Mexico half an hour ago. You are now on a road that winds upwards 2,500 meters, on your way to San Cristóbal de las Casas, the home of the Zapatistas and the central meeting point for local indigenous groups such as the Chamulas. To your right, you can see the world fade away as you get closer to the clouds. It’s your first time here. You’ve read the travel guides and searched the Internet for things to do. Wherever you looked you found the same thing, Palenque, Chamula, Lagos de Montebello. But you want something different. He wants to see the real Chiapas and visit places that are not overrun with tour groups. When you look at the sky, you see two green streaks. When you focus on them, you realize that they are actually a pair of parakeets flying off to an unknown location. “Where do they come from?” you ask yourself….

Top of Parrots

Located 1.5 hours from Tuxla Gutiérrez (take the bus service that leaves from Plaza de Marimbau), the Cima de Cotorras (Pericos), is a sinkhole 180 meters deep. While the surrounding area tends to be dry during the summers, at the bottom of this sinkhole is a tropical jungle that stays wet year-round. But the main attraction of this place is the thousands of parakeets that call this sinkhole home. For the adventurous, a daily tour is offered at 5:00 am to descend to the middle of the sinkhole and watch the thousands of parakeets wake up and ascend in unison out of their jungle home. Facilities include a hotel, camping grounds, and a restaurant overlooking the sinkhole. Proceeds from the site go towards maintaining the natural habitat of the shorelines.

… The clouds part and you find yourself looking at a valley surrounded by green mountain tops. In the middle of this valley there are signs of life. San Cristóbal de las Casas. You can already see the Churches of San Cristóbal and Guadalupe on their respective hills, dominating the town. It must have rained recently, because you see a puddle of water all the way. You think to yourself “they almost look like lakes”…

Columbus Lakes

The Colón Lakes are located 4 hours south of San Cristóbal de las Casas. Take a shuttle from San Cristóbal to Comítan and then transfer to a bus going to Lagos de Colón. This chain of lakes is known for its mirror-smooth surfaces. A popular weekend spot for local Mexicans, these beautiful lakes are perfect for swimming and relaxing all day. Follow the path away from the main lake area and you will find a beautiful waterfall, and follow this path and you will find a small set of newly discovered Mayan ruins. The facilities include a guest house, free camping area, 3 small family restaurants, and during the day there are some small vendors selling food such as fried plantains and fresh fruit.

… The taxi driver turns from the main road onto the avenue. Insurgents. You have just entered the historic center of San Cristóbal. Colonial style building surrounds you. While driving, he goes through an incredible potpourri of humanity. Europeans, Americans, Asians, Mexicans and numerous indigenous groups. As you try to take it all in, your thoughts are interrupted by a growl. It’s your stomach. You realize you haven’t eaten since breakfast 10 hours ago. “Where could I get a bite to eat?” you ask yourself…

comitan

Just 1 hour south of San Cristóbal is the town of Comítan. Most tourists only pass through the outskirts of this town on their way to the Lakes of Montebellos or Chiflon. They are losing. From the bus station, take a taxi (or walk for 15 minutes) to the beautiful historic center. The central plinth is pristine and filled with art and sculpture from around the world. Plants and flowers are always in bloom and the weather is always perfect. The main attraction of Comítan is that most of the local chapanecos (people from Chiapas), recognize that it has the best food in the state. The restaurants on the square are tasty, but tend to be a bit more expensive. If you want the best deal, just walk 1-2 blocks from the Zócalo in any direction and find a local restaurant.

… You fight against the growing sensation of hunger. The first is the first. You need to find a hotel. Fortunately, there seem to be dozens on every block in San Cristóbal. He asks the taxi driver to drop him off in front of one that looks good and seems to fit his budget. You pay your ticket and get your bags out of the trunk, but when you turn around to go into the hotel, you discover that you can’t get through. You are surrounded by dozens of indigenous women and children who say “buy me”. You don’t speak Spanish, but it’s not hard to tell that they want you to buy one of their multicolored bracelets, belts, or Subcomandante Marcos dolls. “Where do they all come from?” you ask…

San Juan del Rio

The small town of San Juan del Río is not on any map. You have to take a colectivo (local public transport) to Cancuc, and then take a local taxi (probably the back of a van) to the entrance of this town. From this entrance you have to walk 1.5 hours to reach the town. The town has no roads or electricity. The town of 500 inhabitants survives by growing coffee. It is a perfect place to see what life is like for most of the chapanecos. Have traditional food, cooked over an open fire. Spend some time relaxing in a Mayan steam room, and then head down to the local river and swim. Foreigners are so rare here, the children on the river will likely stare and point in amazement at any strangers who appear. You have to organize a tour with one of the local villagers to get here. The money from these tours goes to the village fund to build a road.

…You made your way through the crowd that surrounded you outside. You are now the proud owner of 5 colorful bracelets and a clay figure that looks like a turtle to you. You ask if there are any rooms available. In broken English, the girl at the desk says “Yes” and gives you a list of prices. The prices were fair. While the receptionist prepares the paperwork, you scan the tourist brochures found at the reception desks. There are hundreds, each selling tours to the same places. Then one catches your eye. This one isn’t glossy or professional like the others, it’s black and white with nothing but a pyramid on the cover. “Where is Tonina?” you ask the receptionist…

tonina

Toniná is located 3 hours from San Cristóbal. Take a bus to Ocosingo and then take a taxi or collectivo to Toniná. Toniná is located in the middle of an open plain. Standing on top of its highest level you can see for miles and miles in all directions. Getting a tour guide is highly recommended. Your guide will lead you through the pitch-black labyrinth of the Shaman of Death and show you how the ancient Mayans had designed rooms to have natural air conditioning. A little known fact is that Toniná is actually responsible for the fall of Palenque (its famous cousin to the west). The museum outside the ruins is small, but well worth a visit. Bring a large bottle of water as there is very little shade during your tour and you will get thirsty.

….You are finally here. Installed in his hotel room. Exhausted but excited. All that’s left to decide is “What am I going to watch tomorrow?”